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Lease vs Buy Calculator

Compare the true total cost of leasing vs buying the same car side-by-side. See monthly payments, total out-of-pocket, end-of-term equity, and the clear net advantage over 3–7 years. Money-factor math, mileage overage, fees, and taxes all included.

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Vehicle & Shared Inputs

Manufacturer's sticker price — drives lease residual

Selling price after discounts (cap cost when leasing)

Cash upfront in either scenario

Credit applied either direction

State + local combined rate

Both lease and buy compared over this period

Lease Inputs

≈ APR ÷ 24

% of MSRP retained at lease end

Bank fee charged at lease start

Charged at lease end if you don't buy/re-lease

Overage charged at $0.25/mile

Buy Inputs

From bank or credit union pre-approval

Can extend beyond comparison term

Estimated resale at end of term

We estimate the car will retain 70% of its negotiated price after 36 months — this becomes your equity (resale value − loan balance).

Lease vs Buy: Quick Comparison Table

FactorLeaseBuy
Monthly paymentLower (paying for depreciation only)Higher (paying for full vehicle)
Total cost over 3 yearsLower out-of-pocketHigher out-of-pocket but you own equity
Asset at end of term$0 — return the carVehicle with resale value
Mileage limits10k–15k/yr; ~$0.25/mi overUnlimited
Modifications allowedGenerally noYes — fully yours
Wear & tear chargebacksYes, at turn-inNone
Early exit costPunitive (1000s)Sell or trade anytime
Best forNew car every 3 yrs, low milesLong-term owners, high miles

When Leasing Makes Sense

  • You drive under 12,000 miles a yearMileage caps and overage charges are the #1 lease killer. Under 12k/yr, you'll stay well within the allowance.
  • You want a new car every 2–3 yearsIf you cycle vehicles often anyway, leasing avoids depreciation hits and resale hassle.
  • You can write off the lease as a business expenseSelf-employed drivers and businesses can often deduct the entire lease payment on their taxes — substantially shifting the math vs buying.
  • You're targeting a luxury car for less per monthLuxury brands have strong residuals (often 60%+), making lease payments dramatically lower than financing the same vehicle.
  • You don't customize or modify carsIf a stock vehicle is fine, you forgo the main benefit of ownership and simply pay less per month.

When Buying Makes Sense

  • You drive more than 15,000 miles a yearMileage overages on a lease can easily exceed $4,000 over 3 years. Owning eliminates this entirely.
  • You keep cars 5+ yearsOnce the loan is paid off, your only costs are insurance, fuel, and maintenance. Years 5–10 are when buying massively pulls ahead financially.
  • You want freedom to modify or upgradeLifted trucks, performance mods, custom wraps, towing setups — all off-limits on a lease.
  • You build equity you can use laterA paid-off car is a $15–25k asset. You can sell it, trade it, or pass it down — none of that exists with a lease.
  • You drive in harsh conditionsWear-and-tear chargebacks (curb rash, interior damage, dings) hit lease returns hard. Owning sidesteps this.
  • You want predictable long-term costAfter payoff, your monthly cost drops to $200–$400 of insurance and fuel. A perpetual leaser pays $400+ forever.

Hidden Costs of Leasing

Mileage overage

Typical $0.25/mile. Driving 18k/yr on a 12k/yr lease = $4,500 owed at turn-in over 3 years.

Wear & tear chargebacks

Tire tread, curb rash, interior stains, dings — banks often bill $500–$2,000 at lease end.

Disposition fee

$350–$500 charged at lease return. Often waived if you re-lease the same brand.

Early termination

Breaking a lease early can cost the remaining payments minus a small unearned-finance credit — easily $5k–$15k in penalties.

Acquisition fee

$595–$995 bank fee bundled into your lease at signing. Often hidden in the cap cost.

Gap between residual and market

If the car is worth more than the residual at lease end, you walk away from real equity unless you buy it out.

Hidden Benefits of Buying

Real equity buildup

Every payment puts equity in your pocket. After 5 years on a 60-month loan, you own a $15k–$20k asset outright.

No mileage limits

Drive 5k or 50k miles a year — no surcharges, no surprises at year-end.

Free to modify

Wheels, tunes, lifts, wraps, tow hitches — all yours without dealer pushback.

Sell or trade anytime

If your situation changes, you can sell privately or trade in. A lease has no early-exit option without massive penalties.

Cheaper after payoff

Years 6+ on an owned car are dirt cheap — insurance, fuel, maintenance only. Leasers pay full freight forever.

Insurance flexibility

Owners can drop collision coverage on older cars to cut premiums. Leasers must carry full coverage at high deductibles.

How Money Factor Works

Money factor is the lease equivalent of APR — a tiny decimal representing the interest portion of your lease. To convert it, multiply by 2400:

APR = Money Factor × 2400

Example: 0.00125 × 2400 = 3.0% APR

The finance charge in a lease formula is calculated as:

Finance Charge/mo = (Cap Cost + Residual) × Money Factor

Note: dealers can mark up the money factor — always check the advertised "buy rate" or compare to your bank's auto APR (divided by 24) to spot inflated finance charges.

Always check the VIN before you buy

Our free report reveals accidents, title brands, odometer rollback, theft records, and open recalls in seconds.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is leasing or buying a car cheaper?
Over a single 3-year window, leasing usually has lower out-of-pocket cost. Over 6+ years (i.e. continuing to drive a paid-off car vs. starting a second lease), buying nearly always wins because you stop making payments while the leaser keeps cycling.
How is a lease payment calculated?
Lease monthly = depreciation fee + finance charge, then taxed. Depreciation = (cap cost − residual) ÷ term. Finance = (cap cost + residual) × money factor. Multiply the sum by (1 + tax rate) for your taxed monthly. Our calculator handles all this.
What is a money factor and how do I convert it to APR?
Money factor is the lease equivalent of APR. Multiply by 2400 to convert. So 0.00125 = 3.0% APR. Dealers sometimes inflate the money factor for profit; always compare to your bank's auto loan rate.
Should I put money down on a lease?
Generally no. A 'cap cost reduction' lowers your monthly payment but you lose it entirely if the car is totaled — gap insurance only covers the lease balance. Most experts recommend zero down beyond the first month and acquisition fee.
What's a typical residual value for 36 months?
55% of MSRP is common. Some makes (Toyota, Honda, Subaru) post 60%+. Luxury and rapidly-depreciating models sometimes residual under 50%. Higher residual = lower payment.
Can I negotiate the residual or money factor?
Residual is set by the bank and not negotiable. Money factor can sometimes be lowered (toward the manufacturer's 'buy rate') if the dealer marked it up. Always ask 'what's the buy rate?' before signing.
What if I drive more miles than my lease allows?
Standard overage is $0.25/mile. Going 6,000 miles over a 3-year lease costs $1,500. If you regularly exceed 15k/yr, buying is almost always cheaper than paying overages or pre-buying high-mile leases.
Can I buy my leased car at the end?
Yes — every lease includes a buyout option at the residual price. If the market value exceeds the residual, this can be very profitable. If it's below, return the car.
Does this calculator account for opportunity cost on the down payment?
The advanced section includes an investment-return rate field for opportunity cost analysis. The headline net advantage focuses on direct out-of-pocket cost minus end-of-term equity — the most concrete comparison.
Is leasing a good idea for a business?
Often yes — businesses can deduct lease payments as an operating expense, which can shift the after-tax math significantly. Talk to your accountant about Section 179 vs. lease deduction trade-offs.

Decided to buy? Calculate the exact loan payment.

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