New Hampshire Salvage Title Check by VIN — Is the Title Clean?
A salvage brand is recorded against the VIN, not against the document the seller hands you. Run the number and you see every brand the car has collected in New Hampshire and in every other state it has passed through — including the ones a re-issued title no longer prints.
Run a Free New Hampshire Salvage Title Check
Enter any 17-character VIN — cars, trucks, SUVs, motorcycles
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How a New Hampshire Salvage Title Check Works
Three steps turn scattered insurer, auction and New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles records into a straight answer on whether this car has ever been written off.
Enter the 17-character VIN
Read it off the plate at the base of the windscreen, the driver-side door jamb, and the New Hampshire title, and check all three agree before you go any further. A VIN that does not match across the car is a bigger problem than any brand.
We search the national brand record
The lookup queries NMVTIS, which the New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles and all other state titling agencies report into, plus insurance total-loss feeds and salvage-auction listings. Those are separate systems, and a car can appear in one before it appears in the others.
Read every brand, in every state
The result shows each brand ever applied to the VIN and the state that applied it — not just what New Hampshire currently prints. A brand from a previous state is the single clearest sign the paper title in front of you has been washed.
What Counts as a Total Loss in New Hampshire
A total loss is an accounting decision, not a verdict on whether the car can be fixed. Almost any vehicle can be repaired given enough money. The insurer stops when repairing costs more than the car is worth, writes the owner a cheque for its value, takes the wreck, and notifies the state — and it is that notification, not the crash, that produces the brand.
New Hampshire draws the line at 75% of the vehicle's pre-loss value. That is the estimated cost of repair set against what the car was worth the morning of the crash. Who that test actually binds is a separate question, and it is worth knowing before you read the figure: in some states the insurer's own total-loss declaration is what brands the car and the percentage never enters into it, while in others the percentage governs only damage that no insurer is paying for.
New Hampshire runs two tests and only one of them is a percentage. RSA 261:22, VI defines a total loss vehicle as either an unrecovered stolen vehicle or a damaged vehicle that is "physically or economically impractical to repair in connection with an insurance claim settlement", or one for which "the cost of repairing the vehicle is 75 percent or more of its fair market value prior to the vehicle being damaged". The comparator is fair market value immediately before the damage, not what you paid and not what the car is worth wrecked.
The percentage limb has a fuse on it. It applies only "if the damage occurs during its model year or the 4 subsequent calendar years". On a car older than that the arithmetic test is simply unavailable, and the only route to a salvage title is the insurer’s own judgment that repair is impractical. That is a discretionary call with no number attached, which is why two similar older cars can come out of the same crash with different titles.
New Hampshire salvage rules at a glance
- Titling agency: New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles
- Total-loss test: Fixed percentage of pre-loss value
- Salvage threshold: 75% of pre-loss value
- Governing statute: RSA 261:22; RSA 261:3, I(k); RSA 261:20, I(i); N.H. Code Admin. R. Saf-C 1921 to 1923
- Salvage brand wording: SALVAGE
- Rebuilt brand wording: REBUILT VEHICLE
- Out-of-state brand carried forward: Yes
Check this NH VIN for a brand:
Even inside the five-year window the sum is not the repair estimate you were shown. RSA 261:22, VI(b) says the total cost of repairing "shall not include the cost of repairing, replacing, or reinstalling inflatable safety restraints, tires, or entertainment systems". Airbags are usually the single most expensive line on a modern collision estimate, so a car whose airbags all deployed can carry a five-figure bill and still fall short of seventy-five per cent on the arithmetic that counts. Ask for the itemized estimate, not the total, and subtract those three lines yourself before you decide the car was borderline.
The wider carve-out is RSA 261:3. The salvage duty reaches only vehicles that are not exempt from titling, and paragraph I(k) exempts "Any motor vehicle whose manufacturer’s model year is before the year 2000, except heavy trucks and truck-tractors whose gross vehicle weight exceeds 18,000 pounds". A pre-2000 New Hampshire car cannot receive a salvage title at all, however badly it was wrecked — so on a 1999 car a clean New Hampshire title is not evidence of anything. The exception matters as much as the rule: a pre-2000 heavy truck over 18,000 pounds is still titled, and still brandable.
The deadline is short and the fee is trivial. RSA 261:22, II makes the insurer apply for the salvage certificate "within 20 days of the total loss payment", with "The required fee of $10". Paragraph II-a is the one worth knowing as a buyer: if after 30 days the insurer still cannot get the paperwork, it may apply "without surrendering the certificate of title or other ownership documentation for the motor vehicle", and the resulting salvage certificate "shall be issued free and clear of all liens". That is a lawful lien-stripping route, so a New Hampshire salvage title showing no lienholder does not prove the old loan was ever paid off.
The rule sits in RSA 261:22; RSA 261:3, I(k); RSA 261:20, I(i); N.H. Code Admin. R. Saf-C 1921 to 1923.
What follows from that: the brand records an economicevent. A ten-year-old car with a book value of a few thousand dollars can be totalled by a shunt that would barely register on a new one, and it is the cheap car that gets branded. Read a salvage brand as “the repair bill was large relative to this car”, then go and find out what the damage actually was.
The Three Total-Loss Regimes, and Why They Matter to You
There is no national rule for when a damaged car becomes a salvage car. Each state picks one of three tests, and the choice decides whether an identical wreck leaves the body shop with a brand or without one.
Percentage of value
The most common test. The state fixes a percentage of the car's pre-loss actual cash value, and an insurer whose repair estimate reaches it must report a salvage. Thresholds run from about half the value to the whole of it, so the same $6,000 estimate on a $10,000 car is a mandatory brand in one state and a routine repair in another.
Total loss formula (TLF)
Repair cost plus salvage value, measured against actual cash value. TLF is sensitive to the parts market — a truck with hungry demand for its doors and tailgate totals on less damage than a car whose panels nobody wants.
Insurer discretion
No statutory trigger. The carrier decides when repair stops making commercial sense, on internal thresholds that are neither published nor binding. Two insurers can look at the same photographs and reach different answers, and neither is breaking a rule.
The consequence cuts both ways, and it is the reason to check the record rather than the paperwork. A cheap salvage car from a low-threshold state is not necessarily badly wrecked — it may have been branded on arithmetic another state would never have applied. An unbranded car from a high-threshold or discretionary state is not necessarily undamaged. It also makes moving damaged cars between states a business: a rebuilder who buys a wreck, repairs it and re-titles it where the brand does not carry across ends up holding a clean-looking certificate on a written-off car, without forging anything. That is title washing, and it is the same route by which a mileage brand gets left behind — which is why the two are worth checking together.
NMVTIS is the answer to that gap. Every state titling agency, insurer, salvage yard and recycler reports into it, and it is keyed to the VIN rather than to any document. A second state can print a fresh certificate; it cannot delete the record of the first one. The title is produced by the person selling you the car. The record is not.
New Hampshire Title Brand Vocabulary
States do not use the same words for the same thing, and the words are not decoration — they decide what you are allowed to do with the car. These are the brands the New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles applies. Each one surfaces in a VIN check no matter which state later issues the title.
Issued when an insurer declares a vehicle a total loss — usually when repair costs reach roughly 65–100% of its value, depending on the state. A salvage vehicle cannot legally be driven until it is repaired, inspected, and re-titled.
A salvage vehicle that has been repaired and passed a state inspection to legally return to the road. The prior total-loss damage permanently lowers its value and can complicate insurance and resale.
Restricts the vehicle to use as a parts donor. It cannot legally be registered or driven on public roads.
Marks a vehicle damaged by water submersion. Flood cars frequently develop hidden electrical faults, corrosion, and mold months or years later — often after cosmetic cleanup hides the evidence.
New Hampshire calls its brands legends, and they are typed into the document rather than stamped across it. The salvage certificate "shall contain a legend indicating that the vehicle has been declared a total loss" under RSA 261:22, III, and the DMV brands that certificate "Salvage". After a successful rebuild the wording changes rather than disappears: RSA 261:22, IV requires that "Any new title and registration issued for a rebuilt vehicle shall contain the legend ‘rebuilt vehicle.’" The registration carries it too, which is unusual — in most states the brand lives on the title alone.
It does not wear off. The DMV states plainly that "All subsequent titles issued for that vehicle will bear the legend ‘Rebuilt Vehicle’". There is no clean-title endpoint in New Hampshire, no waiting period and no mileage at which the legend drops.
The part to look for first is physical. RSA 261:22, IV has the department issue "a decal bearing the legend ‘salvage vehicle’ which the title bureau investigator shall affix to the vehicle on the rear of the left front door post", and each decal must carry a printed statement that removing it is a misdemeanor. Open the driver’s door and look at the pillar behind it before you look at any paperwork. That decal is the one piece of brand evidence that survives a lost title, an out-of-state retitle or a seller who simply does not mention it, and RSA 261:22, V makes it a misdemeanor for any person to remove it or cause it to be removed.
One trap: no decal does not mean no brand. Where a car was written off as stolen and came back intact, Saf-C 1922.03(b) provides that "The title brand of salvage titles issued pursuant to this section shall read ‘recovered theft’, and no salvage decal shall be affixed to the vehicle". The DMV puts the same rule in plainer words: if the vehicle is intact with no damage as stated on letterhead from the insurance company, the title is marked "Recovered Theft". So a clean door pillar is consistent with a branded title, and the paperwork still has to be read.
New Hampshire gives the buyer a real remedy, which is rarer than it sounds. RSA 261:22, IV-a requires that before selling a salvage or rebuilt vehicle "the seller shall disclose to the buyer in writing that the vehicle is a salvage vehicle and the reasons for such designation", and failure to do so "shall constitute an unfair or deceptive act or practice under RSA 358-A:2" — the state’s consumer protection act, which carries private enforcement. On top of that, a bona fide purchaser who got no written disclosure, or who finds the seller has taken the decal off, "may rescind the purchase within 3 business days" of receiving a title or registration that discloses the brand. Three business days is short. If you suspect a brand, get the title in your hands early and start counting.
There is no junk or non-repairable title here at all. A crusher must report to NMVTIS within 30 days under RSA 261:22, I(a), and Saf-C 1923.01 makes the same federal notification the whole of the junk regime — no New Hampshire document is issued and no permanent bar is recorded. The consequence runs the other way at the border: Saf-C 1922.02 catches every vehicle "declared a salvage or junk vehicle by another state" and requires an inspection before New Hampshire will register or title it. A car another state marked non-repairable can therefore be inspected into a New Hampshire rebuilt title, which is exactly the seam a national VIN history is for.
Sort the brands into two piles as you read them. One pile — salvage, rebuilt, reconstructed, prior salvage — describes a car that can legally return to the road once it passes inspection. The other — junk, scrap, non-repairable, certificate of destruction — is a permanent bar. A vehicle in the second pile can never be titled for road use again, whatever a seller tells you about how straight it is now.
New Hampshire carries a brand applied by another state forward onto its own title, so a washed document from a neighbouring state does not survive a transfer into NH.
Has This New Hampshire Car Ever Been Written Off?
A re-issued title can look clean over a total loss recorded in another state. Run the VIN and see every brand on the record, free, in seconds.
Salvage to Rebuilt: The New Hampshire Inspection
A salvage title is not a licence to drive. It is closer to a receipt for a wreck: the car is legally off the road until somebody repairs it, submits it for inspection, and gets a new certificate issued in the rebuilt category. Buying a salvage-titled car and driving it home is not a grey area — it is an unregistered, uninsurable vehicle on a public road, and New Hampshire will not put plates on it until the rebuilt certificate exists.
In New Hampshire the inspection is carried out by the New Hampshire DMV Title Bureau. The statutory core is short. Under RSA 261:22, IV the owner "shall not apply for title or registration again until the vehicle has been inspected by the director or the director’s authorized representative", and the inspection covers "verification of the vehicle identification number and bills of sale or titles for major component parts used to rebuild the vehicle". Where a replacement number is needed the state attaches one, and it "shall take precedence over any other number that may be engraved on or attached to the vehicle".
The documentary test is stricter than the physical one. Saf-C 1922.01(g) wants the insurance adjuster’s collision report detailing the damage and confirming the total loss; only if that report genuinely cannot be obtained may you substitute written confirmation from the insurer that it cannot provide a copy, "along with a notarized statement, from the individual who conducted the necessary repairs". Note that the DMV’s own inspection sheet is blunter than the rule — asked "Do I need to have the Insurance Adjusters report with me? I can’t get one!", it answers simply "Yes". Turning up without either the report or the full notarized substitute is the most common way an appointment is wasted.
The hands-on checklist is oddly two-tier as the rule is drafted. Saf-C 1922.01(h) lists thirteen items — hood, bumpers and doors opening and shutting with both primary and secondary hinges undamaged, glass, a visible VIN, seatbelts, airbags, seats, wipers and defrosters, sun visor and mirror, steering and suspension, the ABS system, body panels that neither foul the doors nor "protrude or cause a hazard to pedestrians", and "Frames and undercarriage are free of excessive rust" — but attaches them to paragraph (f), the twenty-day registration used to drive a repaired car to the appointment. Paragraph (i), which attaches to the ordinary (e) route, lists only four: seatbelts, airbags, seats and sun visors. Read literally, the car you drive in faces a longer list than the car that arrives on a flatbed. Prepare for the thirteen either way.
Airbags are the item to plan around, and they cut both ways. They are excluded from the total-loss arithmetic that got the car branded, then required at inspection: Saf-C 1922.01(h)(5) passes the car only if "If airbags were equipped on the vehicle from the factory, airbags are functioning, through electronic verification". Electronic verification means a scan tool, not a look at the dash light, so a resistor spliced in to kill the warning lamp fails. The DMV’s sheet answers the question "Do I need to have air bags replaced?" with a flat "Yes".
It helps to know what does not fail you. Asked whether a few remaining dents are acceptable, the DMV says yes; asked "Do I need to get the repaired areas repainted?", it says no; and "The vehicle will pass a Salvage Inspection without replacing stolen accessories". This is an anti-theft and structural check, not a cosmetic one. If you are stripping a marked salvage car for parts, the same sheet tells you the title remains with the frame and to note the removed parts on it.
The logistics are the real constraint. Inspections are by appointment only at seven DMV sites — Concord, Dover Point, Keene, Manchester, Nashua, Tamworth and Twin Mountain — and most run mornings only, several just one or two days a month, with Tamworth and Twin Mountain open 8:00 to 10:00 a.m. on a single day each month. Book well ahead. You must have the DSMV 545A salvage affidavit filled in before you call, because it is needed to make the booking and Saf-C 1922.01(l) requires it to be completed "under the penalties of unsworn falsification"; the form sheet warns that failing to complete it in full means being turned away and rescheduled. Note that the DMV website and the current DSMV 545F location sheet print different booking numbers — (603) 227-4150 on the web page, (603) 227-4180 on the form — so if one does not answer, try the other. No inspector will come to you: asked "Can a DMV Official come to my home?" the answer is no. The only exception is a rebuilder with several cars at one site, which is arranged with State Police as detail work at $105.00 an hour with a four-hour minimum, $420.00.
Getting the car there is provided for. Saf-C 1922.01(f) issues "a single nonrenewable 20-day registration" to a resident to transport a repaired vehicle to an authorized inspection location, and if the car fails, one further twenty-day registration is approved — one retry, not unlimited. The alternative is a flatbed. Pass, and the decal goes on, you receive the DSMV 547 vehicle identification report, and you take that to your town or city clerk to register and apply for the new title.
The New Hampshire DMV Title Bureau
Inspection fee: $60 for the salvage vehicle decal under RSA 261:20, I(i), raised from $50 on 1 January 2026, taken by Visa or MasterCard over the phone when you book and not refunded unless the Department of Safety authorizes it; the salvage certificate itself is $10, and the title fee afterwards is whichever limb of RSA 261:20, I applies, $35 for a certificate of title or $40 where an ordinary certificate is issued on surrender of a distinctive one
Official NH rebuilt-title inspection pageUnderstand what these inspections are usually for, because buyers routinely misread them. The primary purpose in most states is anti-theft verification — confirming the VIN plates are original and untampered, and that the parts bolted onto the car were bought rather than stolen, which is why receipts for major components are demanded. A rebuilt inspection is not a structural engineering assessment, and passing it is not a statement that the repair was done well.
So the certificate on the wall tells you the car is legal. It does not tell you the frame was pulled straight, the airbag module was replaced rather than reset, or the welds are where a factory would have put them. That is what your own independent pre-purchase inspection is for, and on a rebuilt car it is not optional.
What to ask for before you agree a price
- 1Photographs of the car before repair. A rebuilder who did honest work kept them; one who did not will find a reason they are unavailable.
- 2The parts invoices, especially for airbags, structural components and safety restraints. Salvaged airbags are a known and dangerous shortcut.
- 3The New Hampshire inspection paperwork in the seller's name, matching this VIN, not a photocopy of somebody else's.
- 4The insurance total-loss settlement, if the seller has it — it names the damage the carrier actually paid out on.
- 5An independent inspection from a shop that does collision work, on a lift, before money changes hands. Budget for it as part of the purchase.
Then put the sale itself on paper. Write the brand into your New Hampshire bill of sale in the seller's own words — a rebuilder who will not describe the car in writing as what its title says it is has told you something. And before the money moves, check whether anyone still holds a security interest in it. Rebuilt cars are bought at auction and repaired on credit far more often than clean ones are, and a lender's claim survives the repair, the inspection and the new certificate.
What a Rebuilt Title Actually Costs You
The sticker discount is real. What people underestimate is that the brand keeps charging you — every year you own the car, and again on the day you sell it.
Insurance is narrower and sometimes unavailable
Liability cover is normally fine. Physical damage is where the problem lives: several large insurers decline comprehensive and collision on a rebuilt vehicle outright, and those that write it settle any future claim against the reduced branded value. Get a quote against the actual VIN before you agree a price.
Most lenders will not finance it
Branded collateral is hard to value and hard to move on repossession, so banks and captive finance arms generally decline. Some credit unions lend at a shorter term and a higher rate. In practice it is a cash purchase — which also removes the lender's appraisal, one of the few independent checks in a normal transaction.
The resale discount does not fade
A branded car trades well below a comparable clean one, commonly quoted around 20% to 40% depending on the vehicle and the documentation. The gap does not close with age, because every future buyer runs the same VIN you are running now. Most dealers will not take one in part-exchange at all.
Repair quality is the real variable
A car repaired with new OEM panels on a jig can be entirely sound. One straightened by eye with junkyard parts and a reset airbag light shows up later as pulling under braking, doors that stop sealing, or restraints that do not fire. Nothing on the title separates the two — only the documentation and a lift.
Should You Ever Buy a Salvage or Rebuilt Car?
Sometimes, yes. The honest answer is that it depends on what the car was hit by and what you need the car to do — and it is a judgement most buyers can make for themselves once they know what to separate. Two lists, and they are not close calls.
Cases where the discount is genuinely worth it
- Hail damage on an otherwise untouched car. It is cosmetic, it totals cars on paint cost alone, and the mechanical vehicle underneath is exactly what it was.
- A recovered theft with no collision damage, where the write-off happened because the insurer had already paid the claim before the car turned up.
- An older, low-value car totalled by modest damage. On a $4,000 car it takes very little to cross a threshold, and the repair may be one panel.
- A car you intend to keep for a decade and run into the ground. The resale penalty only bites if you plan to sell.
- A repair you can fully document — pre-repair photographs, parts invoices, and a shop you can phone.
Cases where the discount is a warning, not a bargain
- Any flood history. Water gets into loom connectors, control modules and seat-belt pretensioners, and the failures arrive months later in an order nobody can predict.
- Deployed airbags with no invoice for the replacement modules. A reset light over a spent or salvaged restraint system is the most dangerous shortcut in the trade.
- Structural or unibody repair without documented frame measurements. If the shell is out of alignment the car will never track, brake or crash correctly.
- A rebuilder who cannot produce pre-repair photographs, or who bought and re-titled the car in the last few weeks.
- Anything you need to finance, insure comprehensively, or resell within a couple of years — the brand blocks all three.
The flood exception is not a preference. Every other category on these lists is a matter of price and documentation. Flood is the one where a well-presented car and a ruined car look identical for the first year, and where the damage is distributed through the electrical system rather than concentrated somewhere a mechanic can look. Flood cars also travel: they are bought cheaply after a storm, cleaned, and sold hundreds of miles away, which is why the state on the current title tells you very little about where the water was.
What a Salvage Check Does Not Tell You
A title brand is a fact about the car's damage history as reported by an insurer. It is silent on who owns the car, what the odometer has done, and whether anyone is looking for it. Those live in different systems and are different searches — a car with a spotless brand record can still be encumbered, clocked, or stolen.
More New Hampshire Vehicle Guides
Everything else worth checking before you put a New Hampshire car in your name.
Salvage Title Check in Other States
Worth comparing if the car you are looking at was titled somewhere else before it reached New Hampshire— the threshold that branded it, or failed to, was that state's rather than this one's.
View the full salvage title check hubNew Hampshire Salvage Title Check — Frequently Asked Questions
How do I check for a salvage title in New Hampshire?+
Enter the 17-character VIN in the search box on this page. Title brands are recorded against the VIN, not against the paper title the seller is holding, so a VIN search reaches a brand the document does not show. We cross-reference NMVTIS — which aggregates title-brand records from the New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles and every other state titling agency — along with insurance total-loss feeds and salvage-auction records.
What counts as a total loss in New Hampshire?+
New Hampshire uses a percentage threshold: the salvage line sits at 75% of what the vehicle was worth before the damage. Who that test binds varies by state — sometimes the insurer's own total-loss declaration brands the car and the percentage never applies, and sometimes the percentage governs only damage no insurer is covering. The rule is set by RSA 261:22; RSA 261:3, I(k); RSA 261:20, I(i); N.H. Code Admin. R. Saf-C 1921 to 1923. Whichever test applies, what triggers the brand is the insurer's decision, not the severity of the damage as a mechanic would judge it — which is why a lightly damaged older car and a badly damaged newer one can end up carrying the same title.
What title brands does New Hampshire use?+
New Hampshire records these brands through the New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles: SALVAGE, REBUILT VEHICLE, Parts Only, Flood. The wording matters more than it looks — the word for a repaired total loss differs between states, and a seller describing the car in a neighbouring state's vocabulary is either careless or moving cars across a state line.
How does a salvage car get a rebuilt title in New Hampshire?+
It has to be repaired and then cleared by the New Hampshire DMV Title Bureau before it can be re-titled and driven; the section on the New Hampshire inspection above covers what that involves, and whether a physical inspection is guaranteed or only happens on the cars the state picks. The inspection fee is $60 for the salvage vehicle decal under RSA 261:20, I(i), raised from $50 on 1 January 2026, taken by Visa or MasterCard over the phone when you book and not refunded unless the Department of Safety authorizes it; the salvage certificate itself is $10, and the title fee afterwards is whichever limb of RSA 261:20, I applies, $35 for a certificate of title or $40 where an ordinary certificate is issued on surrender of a distinctive one. Passing it is not a statement that the repair was done well — in most states the inspection is an ownership and anti-theft check, which is why it wants receipts for major parts rather than frame measurements.
Does a salvage brand disappear if the car is re-titled in another state?+
No. The brand is attached to the VIN in NMVTIS, and NMVTIS is fed by every state titling agency, by insurers, and by salvage yards. A paper title issued in a second state can come out looking clean — that is what title washing is — but the VIN record does not reset when the car crosses a state line. New Hampshire also carries a brand applied elsewhere forward onto its own title.
Can you insure and finance a rebuilt-title car in New Hampshire?+
Liability cover is usually available. Comprehensive and collision often are not, and most banks will not lend against branded collateral, so rebuilt cars tend to be cash purchases. Get a written quote from your own insurer against the VIN before you agree a price, not after.
Is it safe to buy a rebuilt car in New Hampshire?+
It depends on what the damage was and who repaired it. Hail, a recovered theft or a rear-end hit on an older car can total a vehicle on economics alone and leave nothing structurally wrong. A flood car, deployed airbags with no documented replacement, or a repaired unibody is a different proposition. Ask for the pre-repair photographs, the parts invoices and the New Hampshire inspection paperwork, then pay an independent shop to put it on a lift. If the seller cannot produce the repair record, you are buying the repair blind.
Does a clean salvage check mean the car was never damaged?+
No, and this is the limit worth understanding. A brand only exists if an insurer wrote the car off and reported it. Damage repaired privately, out of pocket, or by a driver who never made a claim leaves no brand at all — and on an older car, where repair costs easily exceed a low book value, owners often avoid claiming for exactly that reason. A clean brand record is good news about the paperwork, not a report on the bodywork.
New Hampshire sources
The New Hampshire-specific statements above come from these official pages. Thresholds, fees and brand wording do get amended — check the source before relying on a figure in a transaction.
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