Oklahoma Salvage Title Check by VIN — Is the Title Clean?
A salvage brand is recorded against the VIN, not against the document the seller hands you. Run the number and you see every brand the car has collected in Oklahoma and in every other state it has passed through — including the ones a re-issued title no longer prints.
Run a Free Oklahoma Salvage Title Check
Enter any 17-character VIN — cars, trucks, SUVs, motorcycles
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How an Oklahoma Salvage Title Check Works
Three steps turn scattered insurer, auction and Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK) records into a straight answer on whether this car has ever been written off.
Enter the 17-character VIN
Read it off the plate at the base of the windscreen, the driver-side door jamb, and the Oklahoma title, and check all three agree before you go any further. A VIN that does not match across the car is a bigger problem than any brand.
We search the national brand record
The lookup queries NMVTIS, which the Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK) and all other state titling agencies report into, plus insurance total-loss feeds and salvage-auction listings. Those are separate systems, and a car can appear in one before it appears in the others.
Read every brand, in every state
The result shows each brand ever applied to the VIN and the state that applied it — not just what Oklahoma currently prints. A brand from a previous state is the single clearest sign the paper title in front of you has been washed.

What Counts as a Total Loss in Oklahoma
A total loss is an accounting decision, not a verdict on whether the car can be fixed. Almost any vehicle can be repaired given enough money. The insurer stops when repairing costs more than the car is worth, writes the owner a cheque for its value, takes the wreck, and notifies the state — and it is that notification, not the crash, that produces the brand.
Oklahoma draws the line at 60% of the vehicle's pre-loss value. That is the estimated cost of repair set against what the car was worth the morning of the crash. Who that test actually binds is a separate question, and it is worth knowing before you read the figure: in some states the insurer's own total-loss declaration is what brands the car and the percentage never enters into it, while in others the percentage governs only damage that no insurer is paying for.
Oklahoma's line is sixty percent, and the arithmetic behind it leans the owner's way. A car becomes a salvage vehicle when the cost of repairing it "for safe operation on the highway" exceeds sixty percent (60%) of its fair market value immediately before the damage, and fair market value is defined as "the value of a vehicle as listed in the current National Auto Dealers Association guidebook or other similar guidebook or the actual cash value, whichever is greater". Taking the higher of the two figures raises the denominator, so the repair bill has to climb further before the brand attaches. The duty is not the insurer's. Section 1111(C)(1) binds "any holder of the certificate of title" and reaches "any vehicle not insured" in terms, so an uninsured owner who wrecks a car past the line must surrender the title within thirty days. Where an insurer is involved it must notify both the titleholder and Service Oklahoma in writing, and § 1111(L) requires that notice to state "the estimated total damage percentage determination of the actual cash value" — the percentage that decides the brand is a number the insurance company works out and discloses, not one the state recalculates. Three things narrow the rule, and one of them is routinely overstated. The first is age: both § 1105(A)(1) and § 1111(A)(5) reach only a vehicle "within the last ten (10) model years", so a car eleven model years old can be destroyed and still keep an unbranded Oklahoma title. That limit survives a drafting error worth knowing about. Section 1111(A)(5) defines its "Vehicle" by pointing at "paragraph 40 of Section 1102 of this title", but the official compilation now prints two versions of § 1102, because two separate 2024 acts amended it and neither yielded to the other. In the Laws 2024, c. 236 version paragraph 40 is "Travel trailer" and the general definition of "Vehicle" has moved to paragraph 45; in the Laws 2024, c. 452 version paragraph 40 is "Utility vehicle" and "Vehicle" is paragraph 41. The pointer is stale in both. It does not undo the ten-year limit, which is written into § 1111(A)(5) itself rather than borrowed from § 1102, and § 1111 has since been amended again by Laws 2025, c. 171, § 42, effective 1 July 2026, without the cross-reference being repaired. The second is the parts limitation — "actual repair costs shall only include labor and parts for actual damage to the suspension, motor, transmission, frame or unibody and designated structural components" — which is real but is expressly confined by the opening words "For purposes of this section" to § 1105, the definitions section. Section 1111, the section that actually commands you to surrender the title, states its own sixty-percent test and carries no such limitation. So panel, glass and interior work is excluded when you are asking whether the car meets the statutory definition of a salvage vehicle, and is not excluded when you are asking whether the surrender duty has been triggered. Do not treat cosmetic damage as free. The third is a number that is not in the statute at all. Service Oklahoma's own glossary defines a salvage vehicle as one damaged beyond sixty percent of fair market value "but less than 80%", which implies that anything worse is automatically junk. No upper bound appears in § 1105(A)(1) or anywhere in § 1111. The eighty-percent figure comes from § 1105(A)(6), and there it is one of three conditions that must all hold before a vehicle is junked: it must be "incapable of operation or use on the highway", have "no resale value except as a source of parts or scrap", and have "an eighty percent (80%) loss in fair market value". A repairable car that still has resale value and ninety percent damage satisfies one limb and fails two, so on the statute it is salvage and not junk. Where the agency's summary and the statute part company, the statute is the law.
Oklahoma salvage rules at a glance
- Titling agency: Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK)
- Total-loss test: Fixed percentage of pre-loss value
- Salvage threshold: 60% of pre-loss value
- Governing statute: Okla. Stat. tit. 47, §§ 591.11, 1105, 1111
- Salvage brand wording: Salvage title
- Rebuilt brand wording: Rebuilt title
- Never-road-legal brand: Junked title
- Out-of-state brand carried forward: Yes
Check this OK VIN for a brand:
The rule sits in Okla. Stat. tit. 47, §§ 591.11, 1105, 1111.
What follows from that: the brand records an economicevent. A ten-year-old car with a book value of a few thousand dollars can be totalled by a shunt that would barely register on a new one, and it is the cheap car that gets branded. Read a salvage brand as “the repair bill was large relative to this car”, then go and find out what the damage actually was.
The Three Total-Loss Regimes, and Why They Matter to You
There is no national rule for when a damaged car becomes a salvage car. Each state picks one of three tests, and the choice decides whether an identical wreck leaves the body shop with a brand or without one.
Percentage of value
The most common test. The state fixes a percentage of the car's pre-loss actual cash value, and an insurer whose repair estimate reaches it must report a salvage. Thresholds run from about half the value to the whole of it, so the same $6,000 estimate on a $10,000 car is a mandatory brand in one state and a routine repair in another.
Total loss formula (TLF)
Repair cost plus salvage value, measured against actual cash value. TLF is sensitive to the parts market — a truck with hungry demand for its doors and tailgate totals on less damage than a car whose panels nobody wants.
Insurer discretion
No statutory trigger. The carrier decides when repair stops making commercial sense, on internal thresholds that are neither published nor binding. Two insurers can look at the same photographs and reach different answers, and neither is breaking a rule.
The consequence cuts both ways, and it is the reason to check the record rather than the paperwork. A cheap salvage car from a low-threshold state is not necessarily badly wrecked — it may have been branded on arithmetic another state would never have applied. An unbranded car from a high-threshold or discretionary state is not necessarily undamaged. It also makes moving damaged cars between states a business: a rebuilder who buys a wreck, repairs it and re-titles it where the brand does not carry across ends up holding a clean-looking certificate on a written-off car, without forging anything. That is title washing, and it is the same route by which a mileage brand gets left behind — which is why the two are worth checking together.
NMVTIS is the answer to that gap. Every state titling agency, insurer, salvage yard and recycler reports into it, and it is keyed to the VIN rather than to any document. A second state can print a fresh certificate; it cannot delete the record of the first one. The title is produced by the person selling you the car. The record is not.

Oklahoma Title Brand Vocabulary
States do not use the same words for the same thing, and the words are not decoration — they decide what you are allowed to do with the car. These are the brands the Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK) applies. Each one surfaces in a VIN check no matter which state later issues the title.
Issued when an insurer declares a vehicle a total loss — usually when repair costs reach roughly 65–100% of its value, depending on the state. A salvage vehicle cannot legally be driven until it is repaired, inspected, and re-titled.
A salvage vehicle that has been repaired and passed a state inspection to legally return to the road. The prior total-loss damage permanently lowers its value and can complicate insurance and resale.
Indicates a vehicle written off as scrap or parts-only. It cannot legally be returned to the road and should be avoided by buyers seeking a driveable car.
Marks a vehicle damaged by water submersion. Flood cars frequently develop hidden electrical faults, corrosion, and mold months or years later — often after cosmetic cleanup hides the evidence.
Oklahoma does not stamp one document — it issues eight distinct certificates of title, and the type is the brand. Section 1105(B) lists them: Original, Salvage, Rebuilt, Junked, Classic, Remanufactured, Unrecovered-theft and Rebodied. Original is defined by exclusion, as a title "for any motor vehicle which is not a remanufactured, salvage, unrecovered-theft, rebuilt, rebodied or junked vehicle", so a clean Oklahoma title is literally the absence of the other seven. A rebuilt title carries the printed sentence "This Rebuilt Vehicle Has Been Inspected by the Appropriate State Official", which buyers routinely read as a workmanship guarantee; it records only that a VIN and odometer examination happened. Flood cars are stamped "Flood Damaged" and cars recovered from theft "Recovered Theft". Under § 1111(I) the rebuilt title "and any subsequent transfers of such title" must reflect that the vehicle was a salvage, flood-damaged or recovered-theft vehicle and "shall include the salvage date", so an honest Oklahoma rebuilt title should still show when the car was written off. A second age cutoff has nothing to do with the ten-year one. Section 1105(C)(2) requires a damage declaration on the title application only "for a vehicle which is within the last seven (7) model years". The owner declares whether the car has been damaged or stolen, whether an insurer paid, and expressly whether the car comes from "a state that does not classify the vehicle or brand the title" the way Oklahoma does. On an eight-model-year-old car nobody is asked the question at all. Since 1 July 2025 there is often nothing to stamp. Service Oklahoma now issues all vehicle titles electronically, and a private seller transfers ownership on Form 718, Bill of Sale of an Electronic Title, instead of signing a title over. The brand does travel on that form — it has a "Title Type" field — but the seller fills that field in and swears to it before a notary, so it is the seller's affirmation rather than something the state printed. The familiar advice to look at the paper for a stamp therefore does not work in Oklahoma. The state's own record is reached through Form 769, a Vehicle Information Request — but read the form before counting on it. It is posted to Service Oklahoma Motor Vehicle Services, one form per vehicle, and it is not a public lookup: the requester must swear to their eligibility before a notary ("TO GUARANTEE RETURN OF YOUR REQUEST, THIS SECTION MUST BE COMPLETED. A NOTARY SEAL IS REQUIRED") and tick one of a closed list of permitted reasons, which run to being the current owner, holding the owner's written authorisation, or acting as an insurer, licensed dealer, wrecker or party to litigation. Someone thinking of buying the car is none of those. The form also warns that "Vehicle information may not be released by phone", and a title history reaching back to 1992 costs $5.00 plus a $1.73 return-mail fee. So Oklahoma's own title record is open to the seller and closed to the buyer, which is the practical reason a VIN history assembled from other sources does the work here. Two routes let a car shed history, and both sit in the statute rather than around it. Section 1111(J) says an out-of-state salvage, rebuilt or junked notation "shall be retained on the new title issued by Service Oklahoma unless the actual documented cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation on the highway does not exceed sixty percent (60%) of the fair market value" — a brand another state applied can be removed on documented repair costs, which § 1111(C)(3) requires to be "certified by the insurance company paying the loss". And under § 1105(O) a stolen car titled unrecovered-theft is, once recovered, transferred "by an original title, salvage title, or junked title, as may be appropriate based upon an estimate of the amount of loss submitted by the insurer", so a recovered theft can come back clean on the insurer's own estimate. Section 1105(P) points the same way: where the insurer cannot obtain the endorsed title within thirty days of a total loss settlement it may ask Service Oklahoma for the salvage title itself, under penalty of perjury, after "at least two written attempts". The owner's signature is no part of that. A third asymmetry sits in the list of title types: the age limit that keeps an older wreck unbranded applies to Oklahoma damage, while § 1105(B)(2) issues a salvage title to any motor vehicle "specified as a salvage vehicle or the equivalent thereof on a certificate of title from another state" with no age limit attached. A Junked title is where the road ends. Section 1111(B) provides that no certificate of title may be reissued on a junked vehicle, subject only to the narrow § 1111(C)(3) correction route for a car whose documented repairs turn out not to exceed sixty percent; Service Oklahoma puts it plainly, saying junked vehicles "cannot be made roadworthy again" and "may only be used for parts in assembled vehicles". Selling into that gap is criminal rather than merely civil. Section 1111(N) makes it a misdemeanour for an owner who knows the title is the wrong type to fail to correct it "with intent to misrepresent the vehicle", and an equal misdemeanour to buy or receive such a vehicle knowingly, punishable by up to $1,000 for a first offence and $5,000 for a second. One check is open to you before you bid. Section 591.11(C) requires any salvage pool or salvage disposal sale handling a car for an insurance company to publish on its website "the full seventeen-digit vehicle identification number (VIN) and the name of the insurance company that is selling the motor vehicle", and § 591.11(D) requires the winning bidder's identification number to be shown on any sale conducted online. An Oklahoma car that passed through an insurer's salvage auction therefore leaves a public trace carrying its VIN, often long before any branded title is issued. The gap is § 591.11(G), which lifts the whole section for a regularly scheduled consignment auction run by a used motor vehicle dealer selling "for someone other than a public insurance company" — the adjective is in the statute, and it is what keeps the exemption narrow.
The one to memorise is Junked title. That brand is not a discount — it is a permanent bar on the vehicle ever being titled for road use again in Oklahoma. A car carrying it is a parts source and nothing else, and anyone offering to sell you one as a driveable project is either mistaken or lying.
Oklahoma carries a brand applied by another state forward onto its own title, so a washed document from a neighbouring state does not survive a transfer into OK.
Has This Oklahoma Car Ever Been Written Off?
A re-issued title can look clean over a total loss recorded in another state. Run the VIN and see every brand on the record, free, in seconds.
Salvage to Rebuilt: The Oklahoma Inspection
A salvage title is not a licence to drive. It is closer to a receipt for a wreck: the car is legally off the road until somebody repairs it, submits it for inspection, and gets a new certificate issued in the rebuilt category. Buying a salvage-titled car and driving it home is not a grey area — it is an unregistered, uninsurable vehicle on a public road, and Oklahoma will not put plates on it until the rebuilt certificate exists.
In Oklahoma the inspection is carried out by a licensed operator acting for Service Oklahoma. Before a rebuilt title issues, a licensed operator conducts a visual inspection of the vehicle and an examination of the vehicle identification numbers. Section 1111(E)(1) lists exactly what that covers: comparing the VIN with the number recorded on the ownership records, inspecting the VIN and the VIN plate "to detect possible alteration or other fraud", interpreting the VIN to confirm it accurately describes the vehicle, and inspecting the odometer "to detect rollback or alteration". All damage must already be repaired before the examination, and the owner must produce the salvage title plus original receipts for every part fitted, with components such as doors, motor and transmission showing the serial number or VIN of the car the part came from. Nothing on that list is a roadworthiness or repair-quality test. Two provisions confirm how little the stamp claims. Section 1111(H) gives the inspector an immunity: the licensed operator and its employees and agents "may not be sued for and shall not be liable for any damages allegedly arising out of the inspection of a vehicle", leaving liability only for damage the inspector negligently or intentionally does to the car itself. And § 1111(C)(3) provides that where documented repair costs do not exceed sixty percent of fair market value the title is simply reissued and the vehicle "shall not be subject to inspection as required under this section" at all. Two practical points. The examination must happen within ten working days of the owner's request on a form prescribed by Service Oklahoma, and if it cannot be done at the rebuilder's premises the licensed operator issues a permit to drive the car to the inspection site and back. An out-of-state vehicle in the class that requires a rebuilt title is inspected on arrival too — but only "if the vehicle is within the class of vehicles for which a rebuilt title is required and a similar inspection has not been conducted by another state", so another state's inspection is accepted in place of Oklahoma's.
A licensed operator acting for Service Oklahoma
Inspection fee: $25.00
Official OK rebuilt-title inspection pageUnderstand what these inspections are usually for, because buyers routinely misread them. The primary purpose in most states is anti-theft verification — confirming the VIN plates are original and untampered, and that the parts bolted onto the car were bought rather than stolen, which is why receipts for major components are demanded. A rebuilt inspection is not a structural engineering assessment, and passing it is not a statement that the repair was done well.
So the certificate on the wall tells you the car is legal. It does not tell you the frame was pulled straight, the airbag module was replaced rather than reset, or the welds are where a factory would have put them. That is what your own independent pre-purchase inspection is for, and on a rebuilt car it is not optional.
What to ask for before you agree a price
- 1Photographs of the car before repair. A rebuilder who did honest work kept them; one who did not will find a reason they are unavailable.
- 2The parts invoices, especially for airbags, structural components and safety restraints. Salvaged airbags are a known and dangerous shortcut.
- 3The Oklahoma inspection paperwork in the seller's name, matching this VIN, not a photocopy of somebody else's.
- 4The insurance total-loss settlement, if the seller has it — it names the damage the carrier actually paid out on.
- 5An independent inspection from a shop that does collision work, on a lift, before money changes hands. Budget for it as part of the purchase.
Then put the sale itself on paper. Write the brand into your Oklahoma bill of sale in the seller's own words — a rebuilder who will not describe the car in writing as what its title says it is has told you something. And before the money moves, check whether anyone still holds a security interest in it. Rebuilt cars are bought at auction and repaired on credit far more often than clean ones are, and a lender's claim survives the repair, the inspection and the new certificate.

What a Rebuilt Title Actually Costs You
The sticker discount is real. What people underestimate is that the brand keeps charging you — every year you own the car, and again on the day you sell it.
Insurance is narrower and sometimes unavailable
Liability cover is normally fine. Physical damage is where the problem lives: several large insurers decline comprehensive and collision on a rebuilt vehicle outright, and those that write it settle any future claim against the reduced branded value. Get a quote against the actual VIN before you agree a price.
Most lenders will not finance it
Branded collateral is hard to value and hard to move on repossession, so banks and captive finance arms generally decline. Some credit unions lend at a shorter term and a higher rate. In practice it is a cash purchase — which also removes the lender's appraisal, one of the few independent checks in a normal transaction.
The resale discount does not fade
A branded car trades well below a comparable clean one, commonly quoted around 20% to 40% depending on the vehicle and the documentation. The gap does not close with age, because every future buyer runs the same VIN you are running now. Most dealers will not take one in part-exchange at all.
Repair quality is the real variable
A car repaired with new OEM panels on a jig can be entirely sound. One straightened by eye with junkyard parts and a reset airbag light shows up later as pulling under braking, doors that stop sealing, or restraints that do not fire. Nothing on the title separates the two — only the documentation and a lift.
Should You Ever Buy a Salvage or Rebuilt Car?
Sometimes, yes. The honest answer is that it depends on what the car was hit by and what you need the car to do — and it is a judgement most buyers can make for themselves once they know what to separate. Two lists, and they are not close calls.
Cases where the discount is genuinely worth it
- Hail damage on an otherwise untouched car. It is cosmetic, it totals cars on paint cost alone, and the mechanical vehicle underneath is exactly what it was.
- A recovered theft with no collision damage, where the write-off happened because the insurer had already paid the claim before the car turned up.
- An older, low-value car totalled by modest damage. On a $4,000 car it takes very little to cross a threshold, and the repair may be one panel.
- A car you intend to keep for a decade and run into the ground. The resale penalty only bites if you plan to sell.
- A repair you can fully document — pre-repair photographs, parts invoices, and a shop you can phone.
Cases where the discount is a warning, not a bargain
- Any flood history. Water gets into loom connectors, control modules and seat-belt pretensioners, and the failures arrive months later in an order nobody can predict.
- Deployed airbags with no invoice for the replacement modules. A reset light over a spent or salvaged restraint system is the most dangerous shortcut in the trade.
- Structural or unibody repair without documented frame measurements. If the shell is out of alignment the car will never track, brake or crash correctly.
- A rebuilder who cannot produce pre-repair photographs, or who bought and re-titled the car in the last few weeks.
- Anything you need to finance, insure comprehensively, or resell within a couple of years — the brand blocks all three.
The flood exception is not a preference. Every other category on these lists is a matter of price and documentation. Flood is the one where a well-presented car and a ruined car look identical for the first year, and where the damage is distributed through the electrical system rather than concentrated somewhere a mechanic can look. Flood cars also travel: they are bought cheaply after a storm, cleaned, and sold hundreds of miles away, which is why the state on the current title tells you very little about where the water was.
What a Salvage Check Does Not Tell You
A title brand is a fact about the car's damage history as reported by an insurer. It is silent on who owns the car, what the odometer has done, and whether anyone is looking for it. Those live in different systems and are different searches — a car with a spotless brand record can still be encumbered, clocked, or stolen.
More Oklahoma Vehicle Guides
Everything else worth checking before you put an Oklahoma car in your name.
Salvage Title Check in Other States
Worth comparing if the car you are looking at was titled somewhere else before it reached Oklahoma— the threshold that branded it, or failed to, was that state's rather than this one's.
View the full salvage title check hubOklahoma Salvage Title Check — Frequently Asked Questions
How do I check for a salvage title in Oklahoma?+
Enter the 17-character VIN in the search box on this page. Title brands are recorded against the VIN, not against the paper title the seller is holding, so a VIN search reaches a brand the document does not show. We cross-reference NMVTIS — which aggregates title-brand records from the Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK) and every other state titling agency — along with insurance total-loss feeds and salvage-auction records.
What counts as a total loss in Oklahoma?+
Oklahoma uses a percentage threshold: the salvage line sits at 60% of what the vehicle was worth before the damage. Who that test binds varies by state — sometimes the insurer's own total-loss declaration brands the car and the percentage never applies, and sometimes the percentage governs only damage no insurer is covering. The rule is set by Okla. Stat. tit. 47, §§ 591.11, 1105, 1111. Whichever test applies, what triggers the brand is the insurer's decision, not the severity of the damage as a mechanic would judge it — which is why a lightly damaged older car and a badly damaged newer one can end up carrying the same title.
What title brands does Oklahoma use?+
Oklahoma records these brands through the Oklahoma Service Oklahoma (Service OK): Salvage title, Rebuilt title, Junked title, Flood. The wording matters more than it looks — the word for a repaired total loss differs between states, and a seller describing the car in a neighbouring state's vocabulary is either careless or moving cars across a state line.
How does a salvage car get a rebuilt title in Oklahoma?+
It has to be repaired and then cleared by a licensed operator acting for Service Oklahoma before it can be re-titled and driven; the section on the Oklahoma inspection above covers what that involves, and whether a physical inspection is guaranteed or only happens on the cars the state picks. The inspection fee is $25.00. Passing it is not a statement that the repair was done well — in most states the inspection is an ownership and anti-theft check, which is why it wants receipts for major parts rather than frame measurements.
Does a salvage brand disappear if the car is re-titled in another state?+
No. The brand is attached to the VIN in NMVTIS, and NMVTIS is fed by every state titling agency, by insurers, and by salvage yards. A paper title issued in a second state can come out looking clean — that is what title washing is — but the VIN record does not reset when the car crosses a state line. Oklahoma also carries a brand applied elsewhere forward onto its own title.
Can you insure and finance a rebuilt-title car in Oklahoma?+
Liability cover is usually available. Comprehensive and collision often are not, and most banks will not lend against branded collateral, so rebuilt cars tend to be cash purchases. Get a written quote from your own insurer against the VIN before you agree a price, not after.
Is it safe to buy a rebuilt car in Oklahoma?+
It depends on what the damage was and who repaired it. Hail, a recovered theft or a rear-end hit on an older car can total a vehicle on economics alone and leave nothing structurally wrong. A flood car, deployed airbags with no documented replacement, or a repaired unibody is a different proposition. Ask for the pre-repair photographs, the parts invoices and the Oklahoma inspection paperwork, then pay an independent shop to put it on a lift. If the seller cannot produce the repair record, you are buying the repair blind.
Does a clean salvage check mean the car was never damaged?+
No, and this is the limit worth understanding. A brand only exists if an insurer wrote the car off and reported it. Damage repaired privately, out of pocket, or by a driver who never made a claim leaves no brand at all — and on an older car, where repair costs easily exceed a low book value, owners often avoid claiming for exactly that reason. A clean brand record is good news about the paperwork, not a report on the bodywork.
Oklahoma sources
The Oklahoma-specific statements above come from these official pages. Thresholds, fees and brand wording do get amended — check the source before relying on a figure in a transaction.
Vérifications VIN connexes
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